The Shirtmakers Symposium
February 01, 2018
Pitti Uomo 2018 | Florence, Italy: Anto Beverly Hills was invited as a
participant to represent the United States at The Shirtmakers Symposium
hosted by Simon Crompton, founder of Permanent Style, and Silvio Albini
of Albini Group.
The event was held during Pitti Uomo Menswear at
the grand Palazzo Gondi, Florence, Italy. The venue set an inspiring
tone as the very workings of Leonardo da Vinci veiled the walls. A panel
of the world's leading shirtmakers from The United States, London, Hong
Kong, and Italy discussed their personal origins as shirtmakers, their
techniques of shirtmaking, and unique preferences of style. A full video
of the debate can be found on Permanent Style.




Jack
shares his personal insights of the shirtmaking craft that he has
helped build over the last 34 years at Anto. In describing his business,
the underlying message is “It’s all about bespoke.” He distinguishes
between the types of clients he interacts with daily and what type of
unique service each one requires. Jack explains how he guides them
through the process to make the most out of their bespoke experience at
Anto. He then shines light on the entertainment niche that Anto caters
to and how each film and show becomes a micro-project where the team at
Anto collaborates with designers to meet sharp deadlines in producing
shirting for multiple actors and actresses. Intertwined between private
clientele and studio productions, Jack elaborates on the bespoke
process. He discusses the importance of communication; the measurement
process, where up to a sixteenth of an inch is recorded; the level of
craftsmanship and the end to end solution on how to maintain a custom
shirt.

Every shirt maker was asked to create a feature shirt on the less formal theme of "smart/casual." This Anto bespoke signature look is made using Thomas Mason's Hampton twill fabric which helps keep the shirt looking pristine. Jack singled out the Hampton twill 140’s thread count cotton as his personal day to night go-to fabric for his own shirts. It features a spread collar with a white cape and angle cut French cuffs. The contrast white cape casualizes the look of the shirt while bringing attention to shape the face. Referring to the modern man, Jack spoke on how the white contrast collar and French cuffs gives the shirt a distinct look that can be worn transitionally throughout the day. This look is suitable for a smart informal office environment that can be dressed casually unbuttoned without a tie, or formally with a tie.