The Shirtmakers Symposium
February 01, 2018
Pitti Uomo 2018 | Florence, Italy: Anto Beverly Hills was invited as a participant to represent the United States at The Shirtmakers Symposium hosted by Simon Crompton, founder of Permanent Style, and Silvio Albini of Albini Group.
The event was held during Pitti Uomo Menswear at the grand Palazzo Gondi, Florence, Italy. The venue set an inspiring tone as the very workings of Leonardo da Vinci veiled the walls. A panel of the world's leading shirtmakers from The United States, London, Hong Kong, and Italy discussed their personal origins as shirtmakers, their techniques of shirtmaking, and unique preferences of style. A full video of the debate can be found on Permanent Style.
Jack shares his personal insights of the shirtmaking craft that he has helped build over the last 34 years at Anto. In describing his business, the underlying message is “It’s all about bespoke.” He distinguishes between the types of clients he interacts with daily and what type of unique service each one requires. Jack explains how he guides them through the process to make the most out of their bespoke experience at Anto. He then shines light on the entertainment niche that Anto caters to and how each film and show becomes a micro-project where the team at Anto collaborates with designers to meet sharp deadlines in producing shirting for multiple actors and actresses. Intertwined between private clientele and studio productions, Jack elaborates on the bespoke process. He discusses the importance of communication; the measurement process, where up to a sixteenth of an inch is recorded; the level of craftsmanship and the end to end solution on how to maintain a custom shirt.
Every shirt maker was asked to create a feature shirt on the less formal theme of "smart/casual." This Anto bespoke signature look is made using Thomas Mason's Hampton twill fabric which helps keep the shirt looking pristine. Jack singled out the Hampton twill 140’s thread count cotton as his personal day to night go-to fabric for his own shirts. It features a spread collar with a white cape and angle cut French cuffs. The contrast white cape casualizes the look of the shirt while bringing attention to shape the face. Referring to the modern man, Jack spoke on how the white contrast collar and French cuffs gives the shirt a distinct look that can be worn transitionally throughout the day. This look is suitable for a smart informal office environment that can be dressed casually unbuttoned without a tie, or formally with a tie.